Thursday, January 7, 2016: Anchored off Port Lockroy; Cruising the Neumayer Channel overnight

Weather Forecast: fair to clear skies; temperature approximately 30°F with windchill 28°; moderate breeze S-SW 15 knots

After anchoring overnight in Port Charcot, early this morning we sailed north through the Lemaire Channel. Completely surrounded by towering peaks and ice cliffs, it was decided that this was an appropriate spot for the traditional polar plunge. After considerable thought, it was decided that Mark and I were going to plunge together. After all, how do you travel to the end of the world and not jump in?

The highlight of kayaking today was the stellar weather and mirrored seas. It was completely calm, blue-bird skies, white puffy clouds and warmer than you could imagine while completely surrounded by ice. All around us could be heard the distant thundering of moving ice and falls from the heights while we took in an unobstructed 360° view of some of the most massive glaciers on earth. We ended with a kayak congo line in front of the bow of the ship.

 

We took a short zodiac ride to Port Lockroy, Historic Site No. 61 on the Antarctic Peninsula. Discovered by Edouard Lockroy in 1904, it was used as an anchorage by whalers before the British established it as a base in 1944 as part of a secret wartime initiative to monitor German shipping movements. This expedition was code-named Operation Tabarin after a well-known Paris nightclub because team members would be staying there during the darkness of the Antarctic winter. After World War II the station continued operating in a civilian capacity until 1964. The historic base was restored in 1996 and is open during the summer to visitors for as a museum.

Paintings by Evan Watson, the Port Lockroy wintering diesel mechanic in 1960, lay hidden beneath a top coat of paint and were only re-discovered when the bunkroom was restored in 2011. Can you tell who is below?

Port Lockroy has a British Post Office where tourists come to send mail from Antarctica. Around 70,000 cards are posted each year for over 100 countries. Four volunteers spend the summer months here. Mail usually takes 2-6 weeks to arrive and there is no express service available.

Then, of course, on the way out I could not resist the penguins. They waddled along paths they have created in the snow. The day was so warm they lay in the snow to cool down. They argue, they pretend to fight and they make up. They watch over their young. I think I’m going to bring one home with me.